Quote: skotl wrote in post #4

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'kin hate painting ceilings. My wimpy arms get tired after the first three minutes.

But - you're right - better to get it done right now, before the skirts, worktops and floor is in!

Cheers, cheffy

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You're on! But you all have to be here tomorrow!

We also need to shift 16 ton of topsoil from the front to the back. Unlimited beer for that one!

Do you mean me!?

The wall once plastered has a suction rate so fast it will absorb anything that is in the air, you may see flies on it!? For some reason they admire our work..ha ha.

A normal cloth / yellow duster should be suffice to wipe the dust off. A damp cloth may move whats already there about.. its debateable, I won't argue.

One thing you may wish to do is run some decorators 'Caulk' £1.00 a tube from Wilkinsons or cheap bargain shop in to the corners and skirtings, coving line. Run your finger over it and discard the gather and let it dry for a perfect finish. You WILL most likely get hair line cracks, it is unavoidable on 'Scrim' (gauze tape) joints and wall /ceiling perimeters. There are numerous reasons for this, basically they are stress points. The caulk will give longevity.

Apply the pva:water 1:5 as you would neat paint. DON'T saturate the wall or ceiling for eases sake, you may pull off the plaster. Remember, ideally a newly plastered wall should have at least 8 weeks to dry and adhere to its surface!!!! Be liberal and roll in a random sq m coverage overlapping in a Union Jack fashion (we're in this together lol!).

In my experience the prep (pva/water coat ) is a good trial run. If you imagine a symmetrical square wall say 9 sq m, split into 3 banks of 3 sq m:

123
456
789

start at 1 to 2 to 3 to 4 to 5 to 6 etc and so on partially overlapping. Don't go back further than the last panel (1 to 2 to 3 etc) you did for fear of raising the shadow.. it happens and it will dry darker than the rest. you lose the uniform of the paint as it sets.

I hope that makes sense and the 1-9 sq meter panels came out as I typed!! Fingers crossed!!

Quote: skotl wrote in post #27

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You're on! But you all have to be here tomorrow!

We also need to shift 16 ton of topsoil from the front to the back. Unlimited beer for that one!

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Quote: Dave1968 wrote in post #28

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Do you mean me!?

The wall once plastered has a suction rate so fast it will absorb anything that is in the air, you may see flies on it!? For some reason they admire our work..ha ha.

A normal cloth / yellow duster should be suffice to wipe the dust off. A damp cloth may move whats already there about.. its debateable, I won't argue.

One thing you may wish to do is run some decorators 'Caulk' £1.00 a tube from Wilkinsons or cheap bargain shop in to the corners and skirtings, coving line. Run your finger over it and discard the gather and let it dry for a perfect finish. You WILL most likely get hair line cracks, it is unavoidable on 'Scrim' (gauze tape) joints and wall /ceiling perimeters. There are numerous reasons for this, basically they are stress points. The caulk will give longevity.

Apply the pva:water 1:5 as you would neat paint. DON'T saturate the wall or ceiling for eases sake, you may pull off the plaster. Remember, ideally a newly plastered wall should have at least 8 weeks to dry and adhere to its surface!!!! Be liberal and roll in a random sq m coverage overlapping in a Union Jack fashion (we're in this together lol!).

In my experience the prep (pva/water coat ) is a good trial run. If you imagine a symmetrical square wall say 9 sq m, split into 3 banks of 3 sq m:

123
456
789

start at 1 to 2 to 3 to 4 to 5 to 6 etc and so on partially overlapping. Don't go back further than the last panel (1 to 2 to 3 etc) you did for fear of raising the shadow.. it happens and it will dry darker than the rest. you lose the uniform of the paint as it sets.

I hope that makes sense and the 1-9 sq meter panels came out as I typed!! Fingers crossed!!

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Yeah, 1:5 PVA : Water. I use Wickes usually if Evo-stik or Unibond isn't available (for plastering, im not a painter but know some who I share knowledge with etc..) I NEVER use B&Q PVA if I can help it, its lumpy and inconsistent.

Your wall once dry will have a slight skin once PVA has dried, like a silk paint finish. Don't roll the paint roller hard when you start to apply neat paint and if using a brush you may wish to feather in the opposite direction; where you get paint brush lines try with a unloaded brush to paint against the lines and they should virtually disappear.

All backgrounds are different but the methods of application remain the same etc.

Have fun!!!

I'm not a pro but painted my entire house of new plaster over the past 2 years and I used a 5 parts cheapest pish thin mat emulsion and 1 part pva which was told to me by a painter friend and it worked for me.

I also gave the walls a quick rub with a scotch brite pad before painting, to help it key and remove any wee marks the trowel has left, but that's perhaps the spray painter in me

clean it down with damp cloth for the dust then first coat with stabilizing solution then 2nd coat with a lightly diluted paint more 80/20 then re coat with full paint till you happy with the Finnish :-)


bazcrx1 = master craftsman :-)