Can someone enlighten me ?

Took the inlet manifold off my l200 cos it is choked from the EGR and when you look in you can see the valves. When you turn the crank these valves go up and down and when they go up and down they go through the valve stem oil seal.

My valves are covered in crap and when they go up and down surely the seal would make the valve come back down clean ?

Or is that not the case ?

Just wondering if the seals/valves would account for a low compression reading on 2 cylinders.....

depends on what the crap is.
what is it?

oily sludge

Carbon covered in oil.

Use the search for BG products. there is a thread somewhere, I had it done as mine was the same & it cleaned a load of it off. only problem is only garages with the equipment can to the full treatment but we sometimes have meets to get it done depending where you are. these are mainly Edinburgh Or Essex.

Quote: bart wrote in post #1

---

Can someone enlighten me ?

Took the inlet manifold off my l200 cos it is choked from the EGR and when you look in you can see the valves. When you turn the crank these valves go up and down and when they go up and down they go through the valve stem oil seal.

My valves are covered in crap and when they go up and down surely the seal would make the valve come back down clean ?

Or is that not the case ?

Just wondering if the seals/valves would account for a low compression reading on 2 cylinders.....

---

I take it BG is some kind of engine de-coke ?
Not sure mine is as simple as that. I was thinking more along the lines of regrinding valves and new seals.

It might benefit it after a manual clean but i dont think any chemical would shift the crud out of an engine thats done 125,000 with an uncleaned EGR and poor servicing.

What would cause my valves to look more like a twig than a valve ?

Promise you Bart, it'll deal with anything you might have mate, we use it for cleaning DPF's ( Exhaust Cat's), and thats by adding it to the fuel...

Quote: bart wrote in post #7

---

What would cause my valves to look more like a twig than a valve ?

---

Quote: LezT wrote in post #9

---

Quote: bart wrote in post #7

---

What would cause my valves to look more like a twig than a valve ?

---

Could be nothing more than several years of running around in traffic, that would do it easily..

---

How long have you had the truck and where did it come from..?

Only just got it a couple of weeks ago and it came from northumberland in the middle of beyond. It is a 1 owner vehicle but not 1 careful owner.
I knew it wanted work and got it for beer money but didnt really know it wanted sooooooo much work.

At the end of the day i could break it and make back what i payed + a bit, so yes i took a gamble but i love a challenge.

Hopefully with the help of the good people on hear it can live to be abused again ....

This could have had the chugging around a farm and pulling a trailer type of work too, this would do the same as sitting in traffic and coke up the engine, honestly the BG fuel additive / cleaner is very good and will clean the guts of your engine
have you done / had done a compression test and what were the results.... please bear in mind the a garage saying the compression is down on two cylinders could be 'just down a bit' or were there very significant differences..?

Quote: LezT wrote in post #13

---

This could have had the chugging around a farm and pulling a trailer type of work too, this would do the same as sitting in traffic and coke up the engine, honestly the BG fuel additive / cleaner is very good and will clean the guts of your engine
have you done / had done a compression test and what were the results.... please bear in mind the a garage saying the compression is down on two cylinders could be 'just down a bit' or were there very significant differences..?

---

Bart when you replace the gasket mate, use a metal plate gasket from Milners Off Road, by far superior to the Fibre type ones..

I will be using the upgrade metal one from milners as that is where i tend to get most of my service items etc ( good price and quick delivery)
If it hadn't been for the weird compression test i probably wouldnt have removed the gasket cos there is no overheating issues and no oil/water mixing probs. There was a EML at about 2000 rpm and a cloud of smoke ( which i think i have cured with a new actuator)
But the main thing was it just would not start without a sniff of something stronger than diesel.

Does sound like low compression..

What size is the head hex bolt for removing it ?
Also where is the drain plug ?

Either 8 or 10, cannot remember for deffo, sump drain plug is on the sump, no drain for the block.... one on the passenger side bottom of the rad ...

The drain i meant was coolant ? The rad is out but wondered if there was one for engine.

And also to confirm this head needs ANGLE tightening and not torqued ?

is the angle dial that halfords sell any good for this ?

Sorry for all the questions but this will be the first HG i have done.

When it ran was there a blue tinge to the exhaust smoke? Knackered piston rings will give you low compression.

It still runs but was v v difficult to start. On tickover when cold there was a bit of white'ish blue smoke, when you drove it you couldn't really see any smoke till the turbo was supposed to kick in then there was lots ( i may have cured this) of mainly white smoke. It doesnt overheat and will stand ticking over with the temp at normal for as long as you want to leave it

Angle torque setter is fine from wherever as it's just a measurement scale.... what year is the truck, earlier K74's had a graduated sequence rather than angle..

it is a 52 plate o2 !

Fly By Wire or has it a cable throttle..? 02 was the changeover year..