My truck shat its pants this morning, came up with two fault codes;

P2148 - Fuel Injector Group A Supply Voltage Circuit High
U1120 - Network (seems to be a generic ECU fault)

Its a new shape Animal as per my signature.

Truck would run from anywhere between 2-30 seconds then cut out. No stutters, no misses, just cut out.

I've checked all the likely plugs on the engine bay and WD40'd them to expel any moisture that might have been lurking. Spotted that the Ralliart Injector Control Module box wasn't looking faulty but has evidence of corrosion on the casing screws. It was also hanging free as the sticky stuff that bonds it to the battery box had come off. This was my main suspect then.

I've removed the Ralliart loom, boxes and the vacuum pipe to the actuator (the one with the brass fitting in. I've replaced the vacuum pipe for a standard pipe.

The error P2148 has cleared and not returned after a couple of test drives. The U1120 hasn't cleared yet, but it might be a code the ECU self clears after 'x' number of succesful engine start/stop cycles.

The question I have though now is I'm still getting an overboost error flashing up P0234 - Turbo/Supercharger Overboost Condition, then the truck drops into limp mode.

I can't work out why, as far as the ECU is concerned it shouldn't know I had a ralliart box on. Is there something particular about the standard L200 actuator vac pipes? Has anyone any suggestions? Or can anyone take some pictures on or off the truck of their vac pipe so I can compare (its located under the airbox pipe to the turbo, small diameter, black rubber pipe and about 3" long if anyone can help but doesn't know where to find it)

I've just swapped it for a hose I had laying around (which is just the same as the ralliart effort, minus the inline brass fitting), so I can't see it being that unless theres something odd about the standard pipe

I'll become my own expert on this one then I think!

My best guess is that the daft ralliart box (with the restricted vacuum pipe and it's not particularly clever way of sitting between the ecu's standard signal to the injectors and boost pressure sensor) has been masking the fact Ive had overboosting issues on the turbo. So following its removal the trucks ecu can actually see what's going on and it's worried it.

After a bit of investigating, I can't move the rod on the actuator at all, I'll find out this weekend if that's the actuator that's gone tits up, or the vnt on the turbo being bunged up by the stupid egr. My money's on the turbo being coked up from the pointless recirculating of exhaust gasses.

I checked the pressure pipe from the pressure sensor back to the inlet and that's clear, so there's one less suspect.

Can anyone tell me what to order for an egr blanking kit for a new shape? Is the kit the same as the classics? And what pipes do I need to order after the egr coolers taken off?
That might not be a task for this weekend, but it's coming off soon regardless.

This topics proving to be about as popular as a dose of the clap!

Final try then, can anyone tell me what a standard new shape turbo boost pressure should be?
Once I've stripped and cleaned the turbo this weekend I'll take it on another run and ideally would like to know what the boost pressure should show.

From yesterdays test run with the software logging (ignore the 'Golf 1.9tdi' reference, I've just not bothered to create a new profile yet), right before it dropped into limp mode and threw up the overboost error it peaked at 22.48psi.

There seems to be very little information around about these Ralliart boxes. The P2148 code apparently is due to faulty loom in the module, this is what mine throws up with a similar fault, will start up sometimes and die quickly. I'm not in the truck today, but tomorrow I can log boost pressure for you using my app if this helps.

Quote: WelshMart wrote in post #4

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There seems to be very little information around about these Ralliart boxes. The P2148 code apparently is due to faulty loom in the module, this is what mine throws up with a similar fault, will start up sometimes and die quickly. I'm not in the truck today, but tomorrow I can log boost pressure for you using my app if this helps.

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Don't worry about the lack of replys Col,this makes you our Ralliart specialist.When ya get it sorted you will be the go-to fella on this subject....

Quote: woody13 wrote in post #6

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Don't worry about the lack of replys Col,this makes you our Ralliart specialist.When ya get it sorted you will be the go-to fella on this subject....

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Short n sweet...

My Animal with everything standard is running max 20 psi boost altho, sometimes it will briefly hit 21 if giving it some beans! I have blanked my Egr off at the exhaust side of the egr cooler with no issues to date.

Quote: marcosuk wrote in post #9

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My Animal with everything standard is running max 20 psi boost altho, sometimes it will briefly hit 21 if giving it some beans! I have blanked my Egr off at the exhaust side of the egr cooler with no issues to date.

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Box & bleed valve to the actuator still fitted.. EGR Valve still there plugged in.. No codes... I should point out tho, i never had any codes before i done the egr blank, so this might not solve your problem?

Quote: marcosuk wrote in post #11

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Box & bleed valve to the actuator still fitted.. EGR Valve still there plugged in.. No codes... I should point out tho, i never had any codes before i done the egr blank, so this might not solve your problem?

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Just blank the egr then at the exhaust side before it enters the cooler, that way your not letting hot gasses eat away at it...Saves having to remove it completely...

I also fitted an oil catch can to stop oil vapours entering the turbo, so that could also be an option for you??

Quote: marcosuk wrote in post #13

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Just blank the egr then at the exhaust side before it enters the cooler, that way your not letting hot gasses eat away at it...Saves having to remove it completely...

I also fitted an oil catch can to stop oil vapours entering the turbo, so that could also be an option for you??

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Just a couple.. I used fuel hose..
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Grand, cheers

No probs mate... Hope you get it sorted

Monitored boost for you this morning and I'm getting max of 19.3psi, this is without any ralliart box fitted.

@Marcosuk how did you go about blanking the egr?

Thanks, I'll keep that figure in mind for once its built back up.

I was worried that it was hugely overboosting at 22.5, but a little over 3psi before it cottons on and steps in with limp home mode is less concerning.

Take the gasket out, then use that to make a template on some sheet metal.. The gasket is between the pipe & the cooler.. I blanked the exhaust side NOT the egr side of the cooler

Colin, I have an answer for you, but my Internet is crap until saturday, it's an ecu code issue that is covered by the manual we have here. I'll get the text up on Saturday.

Basil

Quote: Basil wrote in post #21

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Colin, I have an answer for you, but my Internet is crap until saturday, it's an ecu code issue that is covered by the manual we have here. I'll get the text up on Saturday.

Basil

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So, the turbo's been off. It put up a sterling effort in remaining on the motor, but in the end I won. The main issue was the actuator has a pin that goes through the arm on the turbo, this has seized into the turbos arm and also the turbos arm had seized. As suspected the ralliart upgrade had been masking this fault for some time....

So with the turbo off two more lessons were learned;

First, the actuator works on pressure rather than vacuum to operate.

Second, that the turbo has a traditional style wastegate to control the boost pressure, and not a variable pitch vane setup (definitely easier to service)

Here's pics of the turbo off the truck after a light service to get the wastegate functioning...


Closed


Open


Wide open (exhaust port visible)



Big hole once you get the airbox turbo and cat out of the way (new stud visible in the manifold, after the old one sheared)!

How is it running now then?

Pretty well, I've done about 40 trouble free miles after finishing rebuilding it this morning. It's a fair bit slower, boost levels spike at 15.5 and holds at about 14.5psi. Thats a fair bit lower than Welshmarts without the animal upgrade, but as far as I can tell everything is operating fine.

If it was a 160ish bhp truck before, it does feel to have dropped to a 130ish bhp truck now.

I'm pretty sure all the codes created within this thread are now sorted for good. I'll just keep my eye out for the gearbox ones returning now in the other thread, as I inherently distrust electrical issues more than mechanical ones!