is there a step by step anywhere of what needs to come off to do them. I am a competent mechanic but I work for MOD so I only really do old landrover engines. Doesnt look as simple as whipping the rocker cover off

Having trouble making sense of the online manual.

is this any help to you ? --------> How to:- De-Coke Manifold & Adjust Tappets (New shape)

why you are in there flip the egr 180 deg too

Looks like exactly what I was after thank you

Why flip the egr? Are they worth blanking on these engines? Or does it upset anything?

Flipping it reduces what goes through it by quite a bit and don't cost anything and no one will know and it us fault free on the ecu. I think . @marf did his

I see. I'll give it a go.

Dont suppose anyone has the part numbers for the gaskets needed since it looks like the write of the guide isn't an active memmber any more

I have got all the gaskets ordered, I hope.Part numbers from Mitsubishi in case any else looks for them. Will confirm if anything is wrong/missing in a few weeks when I have done the job...

MN158295. Gasket throttle body
1582A039. Gasket EGR valve
1582A035. Gasket EGR pipe
MR161679. Gasket EGR pipe (3 of)
1504A050. Gasket inlet manifold
1540A422(1540A049). Gasket inlet manifold (assume second p/n is old spec/superseeded)

Cost £47.41 inc VAT

And rocker cover gasket set from Millers for £6 includes rocker cover gasket and a set of 8 what I assume are injector seals. Planning on re-using the old semi-circular sealing blocks unless anyone advises against it? They are about £10 each from Mitsubishi

Also at 94k miles would you replace head gasket while all this lot is off. No known problems with it, but I know from experience what the old engines were like. Obvious next question if you did take the head off, do you do timing belt and related bits while its off (done 30k miles/4 years ago no recipt but belt looks too good nick to be oriignal). Getting expensive then but at least I hopefully wont need to go in there again for a long time

IF you take the head off, definately do the belts, especially as already 4 years old

Planning on re-using the old semi-circular sealing blocks unless anyone advises against it? They are about £10 each from Mitsubishi

Are you refering to the half moon seals? if so I would replace them to @mikeb1986

Quote: ronniecabers wrote in post #8

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IF you take the head off, definately do the belts, especially as already 4 years old

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I wouldn't take the head off if it shows no sign of failure

I agree with Cheffy..no need to replace something that's not broken......

@Alan G

no need to do the head gasket if its not damaged. personally, when i do them i just buy a head set as it works out slightly cheaper than all the gaskets needed seperately, you can then keep the rest (including the head gasket) incase you need it in the future.

now the new shape is a bit of a ball ache tbh.
you need to
remove engine cover
undo dipstick
undo 4 bolts holding egr to manifold
undo all cables and pipe clamps around inlet manifold
undo injector pipes and MARK THEM IN NUMBER ORDER!
unbolt manifold and lift it off
unbolt rocker cover , it will be tight over the injectors with the rubber seals but it will go
now you can see the tappets. your choice if you are replacing them but if you are doing the belts then you only need to unbolt the camshafts and your there but be warned! the tappets can be a pig to setup

ADJUSTMENT:
run the camshafts round and check each tappet to check clearances (cold or hot depends)
if your adjusting then use a swan neck spanner and a phillips screwdriver (also a pig to get the right size)
DO NOT over do the adjustment as you will get a compresion leak off and misfires, check, re-check and do that again!
the adjustment cold will seam like they have a lot of movement but there ok, these engines natuarally sound like a tractor when cold

take your time, drink tea, buy plasters and wisky is the last resort!

Quote: marf wrote in post #14

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take your time, drink tea, buy plasters and wisky is the last resort!

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Thanks for advice everyone, Glad everyone's saying a no to the head saves me a bit of work

Looks like I'm in for an interesting weekend anyway.

I have done the job to anyone interested, it is a pain in the arse, fiddly but not exactly difficult. took 2 us about 7 or 8 hours, including tea, juice, sandwich breaks etc. Plus an hour at work to clean off the manifold etc. Probably over an hour of that was just setting tappets. Even my swan neck spanner was useless, I used mole grips on a deep socket with a screwdriver through the middle

Undo as much of the loom and vacuum hose along the bulkhead as possible and tie-wrap it to the wipers seemed to help a lot. Meant between us we had 4 hands to jiggle bits about. Get a magnet on a flexible, telescopic end cos bolts all seem to drop in the most awkward bits. The inlet manifold was crusted up I;d say 3mm of crud all the way round all the ports, EGR valve was even worse. Parts washer and steam cleaner worked for me quite well.

Bad news is the engine still rattles a lot on tickover. I think its something bottom end, need someone more experienced to look I think I'm at a loss

nice job mate get a mechanics stephascope to pin point the noise

u sure u set the tappets right

I am going to have a go at this on the weekend.
Thanks for the info.
Nick

have fun nick. Its not that bad a job really. A pain in the arse but a noticeable difference. Probably from cleaning the manifold more than setting tappets

The rattle is definatley from crankcase. I cant get the probe on the detector anywhere near the back but it is very loud and clear near the front, but no sound from the timing cover.
I'm hoping it will be either play in the crank pulley or timing gear. are either of these common problems? I don't really want to get into removing crankshaft to replace crankshaft bearings etc.