Changed the alternator on my 4d56 engine which is in a mitsubishi shogun sport 06 - What a mission!!!

Never before has one man hated a design engineer sooo much what a rediculously awkward place to get it out of.

anyway the new alternator comes with slightly different fittings (one hose connector is almost twice as long and bent up slightly) on the rear for the oil pipes so you have to strip the bits off your old alternator to get them to fit as the fittings on the new alternator would pierce your oil filter. Not exactly onerous to do but i like to take parts out once and put them in once not do the part hokey kokey .......took the alternator out, put the alternator in, took the alternator out and moved some bits about.......put the alternator in ...you get the picture.

but still it s in its fixed and I have a working alternator and vehicle, I am happy.

noticed there's no how to for replacing your alternator.......

cheers

M

Its a pig of a job,done it enough times to know...

Maybe you could take it back out again.......and take pictures and do a write up this time Malky!!?? 😃

i vote take it off again too and take pics and do a write up okey koky

Any decent club member would.......😋

i agree bezzer they would u would have wouldt ya

I'd be out there now in the wet and cold doing it

come on @malky chop chop u put ur whole self in

I imagine he's out there right now....bless him

or tucked up in bed asleep

Dreaming about the write up he's going to do for us

he better be

i think someone should give hi a hand to take it off again for the pics

Shall we pop round now? And surprise him

who is closest

Don't listen to any of these twts malky,do it in the mornin...

woody wil help ya!

Tools Needed
Good socket & spanner set.

Consumables
Possibly Engine oil very small loss
Possibly Anti-freeze - see below

Parts Needed
None

The Project
With truck on level ground, bonnet open.
Remove air filter box assembly.
Remove the under engine protection guards.
Remove the Alternator belts - undo the 14mm Locking nut and unscrew (rotate anit-clockwise) the 12mm tension adjuster bolt until no more thread shows to the right of the adjusting block when viewed from above. You may need to slacked the two other mounting bolts beneath the alternator, one is 12mm the other 14mm (Best done with the underguards removed) - See image here

Jack up front off side and remove front off side wheel (remember to do this safely – flat ground, axle stands etc).

From below, through the opening in the inner wheel arch (easier done between two pairs of hands, but possible on your own), undo the three bolts that hold the brake vacuum pump to the back of the alternator and move the pump away from the alternator. There will be some oil leakage when you separate the vacuum pump from the alternator. (Hence I ended up with very oily arms !!  Next time I’ll be ready for it.) Use a lint free piece of rag to wrap the vacuum pump in and then place the whole assembly in a plastic bag. The rags will soak up the leaked oil and prevented too much being spilt everywhere.

From above, below and through the inner wheel arch, undo the alternator bracket bolts. The alternator will now be loose in it’s space, but won’t drop to the floor. It’s only way out is upwards. You may also find it easier to remove the water hose, but remember, if you do, to top the system back up with the appropriate concentration of antifreeze (I managed to get the alternator out without having to remove the hose, but it would be easier with the hose out the way).

One the alternator is out, place it on a clean work bench.

Undo the three long bolts that hold the alternator body section together and gently  prize the body apart. This will result in the stator assembly being separated from the brush and regulator housing. The rotor will, at this point remain with the brush and regulator housing, but if not supported sufficiently, result in damage to the bearings etc… As you part the sections you’ll see how and where it needs supporting to prevent damage.

Next pull the rotor from the brush and regulator housing.  Watch how this all comes apart as there are bushes and spacers and a seal involved. Take care removing all these – we didn’t realise the was a sealing ring and it got damaged. Make notes or be sure to lay things out in the order they came apart, so that you which order to put them back.

Next, clean up the rotor. This was where a tooth brush comes in handy. Lots of brake cleaner and WD40 to clean it all up. Last clean was done with brake cleaner to ensure no contamination of any surfaces. Also clean the Windings - See image here

Next comes the tricky bit – the brushes.

You’ll see in the photos, that mine were completely flush with the casing, hence the reason for not charging, they weren’t in contact with rotor segments. We puzzled for a while but soon realised they were just stuck with small particles of dirt and mud. A combination of soaking in WD40, brake cleaner and blowing on with a mini compressor (tyre inflator) eventually convinced the brushes to move. Once fully removed the brushes and the holes they sit in were fully cleaned, again, the final clean with brake cleaner to avoid any contamination. Brushes freed off - see here.

Next came the really fun bit. Getting the brushes to remain retracted, while inserting the rotor. There are two very small holes in the side if the brush casing. A 3mm allen key will fit in here. Push the brushes back as far as possible and the allen key will drop through the hole on the casing and into the grove in the working end of the brush – see image here. This holds the brushes back out the way while the rotor is inserted back into its bearing and bushing. Take car to refit the spacers and seal correctly – since my seal was damaged during the strip down, we improvised and made one out of PTFE tape. It’s still there today, but you can hear a bit of a grumble from the alternator now.

Next re fit the stator casing and basically reassemble everything in the reverse order of the strip down.

Similarly, refitting the alternator in the truck is a straight forward reversal of the removal.
To retension the Alternator belts - screw in (rotate clockwise) the 12mm tension adjuster bolt until the belt is tight BUT still has a little play and then tighten the locking nut. If you slacked the two other mounting bolts beneath the alternator, tighten them

Please note when refitting the vacuum pump - it is on a spline drive and can be a bit fiddly to refit, it was at this point I got even more oil up my arms.


Regards
Malky!

@malky bezzer done the write up 4 ya u just need to take urs off and take pics removal is just the reverse of fitting so read this upside down or something

Lol 😄

Pics please!!

I would have taken pictures of when I did mine but I would have ended up throwing my phone lol

A rep that didn't take pics that's even worse

Quote: Warriorbez wrote in post #17

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Tools Needed
Good socket & spanner set.

Consumables
Possibly Engine oil very small loss
Possibly Anti-freeze - see below

Parts Needed
None

The Project
With truck on level ground, bonnet open.
Remove air filter box assembly.
Remove the under engine protection guards.
Remove the Alternator belts - undo the 14mm Locking nut and unscrew (rotate anit-clockwise) the 12mm tension adjuster bolt until no more thread shows to the right of the adjusting block when viewed from above. You may need to slacked the two other mounting bolts beneath the alternator, one is 12mm the other 14mm (Best done with the underguards removed) - See image here

Jack up front off side and remove front off side wheel (remember to do this safely – flat ground, axle stands etc).

From below, through the opening in the inner wheel arch (easier done between two pairs of hands, but possible on your own), undo the three bolts that hold the brake vacuum pump to the back of the alternator and move the pump away from the alternator. There will be some oil leakage when you separate the vacuum pump from the alternator. (Hence I ended up with very oily arms !!  Next time I’ll be ready for it.) Use a lint free piece of rag to wrap the vacuum pump in and then place the whole assembly in a plastic bag. The rags will soak up the leaked oil and prevented too much being spilt everywhere.

From above, below and through the inner wheel arch, undo the alternator bracket bolts. The alternator will now be loose in it’s space, but won’t drop to the floor. It’s only way out is upwards. You may also find it easier to remove the water hose, but remember, if you do, to top the system back up with the appropriate concentration of antifreeze (I managed to get the alternator out without having to remove the hose, but it would be easier with the hose out the way).

One the alternator is out, place it on a clean work bench.

Undo the three long bolts that hold the alternator body section together and gently  prize the body apart. This will result in the stator assembly being separated from the brush and regulator housing. The rotor will, at this point remain with the brush and regulator housing, but if not supported sufficiently, result in damage to the bearings etc… As you part the sections you’ll see how and where it needs supporting to prevent damage.

Next pull the rotor from the brush and regulator housing.  Watch how this all comes apart as there are bushes and spacers and a seal involved. Take care removing all these – we didn’t realise the was a sealing ring and it got damaged. Make notes or be sure to lay things out in the order they came apart, so that you which order to put them back.

Next, clean up the rotor. This was where a tooth brush comes in handy. Lots of brake cleaner and WD40 to clean it all up. Last clean was done with brake cleaner to ensure no contamination of any surfaces. Also clean the Windings - See image here

Next comes the tricky bit – the brushes.

You’ll see in the photos, that mine were completely flush with the casing, hence the reason for not charging, they weren’t in contact with rotor segments. We puzzled for a while but soon realised they were just stuck with small particles of dirt and mud. A combination of soaking in WD40, brake cleaner and blowing on with a mini compressor (tyre inflator) eventually convinced the brushes to move. Once fully removed the brushes and the holes they sit in were fully cleaned, again, the final clean with brake cleaner to avoid any contamination. Brushes freed off - see here.

Next came the really fun bit. Getting the brushes to remain retracted, while inserting the rotor. There are two very small holes in the side if the brush casing. A 3mm allen key will fit in here. Push the brushes back as far as possible and the allen key will drop through the hole on the casing and into the grove in the working end of the brush – see image here. This holds the brushes back out the way while the rotor is inserted back into its bearing and bushing. Take care to refit the spacers and seal correctly – since my seal was damaged during the strip down, we improvised and made one out of PTFE tape. It’s still there today, but you can hear a bit of a grumble from the alternator now.

Next re fit the stator casing and basically reassemble everything in the reverse order of the strip down.

Similarly, refitting the alternator in the truck is a straight forward reversal of the removal.
To retension the Alternator belts - screw in (rotate clockwise) the 12mm tension adjuster bolt until the belt is tight BUT still has a little play and then tighten the locking nut. If you slacked the two other mounting bolts beneath the alternator, tighten them

Please note when refitting the vacuum pump - it is on a spline drive and can be a bit fiddly to refit, it was at this point I got even more oil up my arms.


Regards
Malky!

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huh

I shall copy the How to bit to the how tos....

Quick question first though ...was the right up for a shogun sport?? ( just so I label it rightly...)

ask @Warriorbez