So I have a 2006 pram which I rebuilt the engine of.

From the get go after all fuelled and oiled it has started on the button from cold but takes ages when engine is hot. Not like turn it off and restart straight away hot, then it's ok. But run it and let it cool down for 5-10 mins then it turns over 20 times before firing with a decent puff of diesel smoke out of the exhaust. I could live with this because it always eventually fired.

I have a front facing snorkel and we have had a lot of flooding and rain where we are in Lancashire and Boxing Day when I started the truck to drive back from Yorkshire it would bog right down and sound like it was misfiring. Running on 3 maybe even 2 cylinders and have no power and push little clouds of I burnt diesel smoke out. When turbo kicked in there was no problem power returned and all felt OK. Then pull up at a junction and same thing. Got it home and checked oil. It was down on minimum line but no lower so I topped that up and checked air filter. That was dripping wet so I took it out. Took it for a run and it seemed to be back to normal but still with starting issue.

So Tuesday I decide to reset tappets as I know I wasn't as fastidious I should have been. Some were ever so slightly too tight. A couple too loose so they all got reset to .09 or .14 set cold.

I drive it back home and despite losing 20 litres of diesel from a loose fuel rail Union it drove well. And was a little bit quieter.

Yesterday came to truck and started from cold fine as usual. But had same misfiring issue until turbo kicks in. No power. Can barely do a hill start without over revving. Took air filter out again but it was dry this time and it didn't fix the problem. Took it to filling station and filled up with diesel and put an injector cleaner through it and had a jaunt up the motorway 10 miles in each direction. By time I got back it was running fine at low revs again and all power was back. Could it have been fouled injectors? Haven't tried it yet this morning. It may just be a running when cold thing.

Any ideas?

Oh and then on way home from dog walk yesterday went through another largish flood puddle and an engine warning light came on but truck was running fine. Probably turned itself off already. I'll check that this morning too.

Oh and it's no better at hot starting even after tappets were adjusted.

could be injectors could be timming slightly out have you had the injectors out

Injectors were out when engine was stripped and rebuilt (honed new bearings new Pistons skimmed and valves reseated). Didn't feel need to take them out on Monday. Timing was all spot on when we set it up. All marks lined up etc etc. And like I say has been running fine other than starting issue which I thought was tappets. It's not possible for timing to jump a tooth is it? Been out to it this morning and it's not missing at the moment even from cold. Engine light has gone out. Still feels a little underpowered when moving off from standstill.

any smoke from exhaust?

Not in normal running. It's all clear. If it misses or when it's hot and taking a while to start there's a bit of diesel fumes in exhaust. No water or burning oil.

just wondered if the EGR valve was sticking. I know yours is a new shape, but before I removed mine it was sticking , and it felt like the handbrake was on and was running like a dog , but it started to leave black smoke behind on acceleration

Could be I suppose. I do want to remove egr eventually and get it remapped to delete it so there is no engine warning light. It'd have to be stuck open to do this though wouldn't it? It does make some wurring and clicking noises...

When mine was bad you could see it sticking , and yes it did click a lot. might be worth spraying something like silicone spray on the actual valve and see if that helps. I know the garage I use freed it up , but don't know with what ( I was too busy at work and needed the truck! )

It looks all sealed on mine. Can't see it opening or closing without taking it off.

ah right, on the classics , on the top of the engine , you can see the valve

yeh timming can jump a tooth be known so many times

Is there an easy way to check or is it belts off and timing cover off? It had new belts 5000 miles ago so don't know why it's jump a tooth. Unless if fan stopped suddenly in water...

No easy way to check timing no u got it.

Okay so New Year's Day should not be a day to work on the truck. But checked timing and all marks are spot on. Took EGR off and poured some cleaner into it and it flowed straight through like it was stuck open slightly. Not much but enough to allow exhaust gases through. Soaked it in pure alcohols and cleaned it all up with a toothbrush then lubed it all up and it's all opening and closing properly now. Fitted it back on and all seems to be ok except warning light back on. Fault was intermittent so I'll run it over next few days and see how it goes.

On a side note are a le breathers easy enough to fit on my model. Have a snorkel and had some deep water around so thought it'd be a good shout!

Axle *

diff breathers just extend them and the boxes i think paul did a how too

Definitely egr valve. Not happened again since!

Now to find the oil leak....

Quote: wood4thetrees wrote in post #18

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Definitely egr valve. Not happened again since!

Now to find the oil leak....

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Quote: ronniecabers wrote in post #7

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just wondered if the EGR valve was sticking. I know yours is a new shape, but before I removed mine it was sticking , and it felt like the handbrake was on and was running like a dog , but it started to leave black smoke behind on acceleration

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Quote: adriandiesel wrote in post #20

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Quote: ronniecabers wrote in post #7

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just wondered if the EGR valve was sticking. I know yours is a new shape, but before I removed mine it was sticking , and it felt like the handbrake was on and was running like a dog , but it started to leave black smoke behind on acceleration

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removed mine today as it was doing exactly the same as yours, running perfect now

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Aye. Will throw a warning light on my pram though. Would need to get egr delete remap if I did it.

Mine looks like it's leaking around rocker gasket at front by timing case where the crescent cam blank plate is. Thought I'd nip up the bolt and gone and snapped the bolt. It's doing my head in is this engine now. Always something! Anybody tried stud extractor in situ or do I need to take rocker off completely? It's the front middle one. Very easy access.

Think it's leaking at offside of engine too on rocker gasket. I did do tappets so maybe not refit gasket properly. If so its strip down time again. I've never had an engine which is such a ball ache just to get rocker off!