Hi guys (and girls if theres any out there), ive got a question regarding my 2005 Warrior. Just had the cambelt changed, the mechanic noticed the rad leaking, so replaced that aswell, did an oil change at the same time. Now if i drive normally upto 70mph all is good, if i go over 70mph or above 3k revs for a few minutes my temp gauge rises to about 3/4 rather than staying on 1/2 like normal. If i slow down again the gauge drops to 1/2 again, if i have hot air blowing the gauge doesnt rise. Rad is full, no bubbles or oil in expansion tank (or whatever its called), mechanic reckons its all been bled. Has anyone else had this problem? The car drives fine other than being a bit gutless in first gear so not sure if its just a normal thing for L200's under load.
I look forward to hearing back from my fellow L200 buddies

hum how is the thermostat? did u use a new rad cap too?

Hi 123hotchef, the rad cap hasnt been changed, does it need to be? Its not leaking. I dont believe the thermostat was changed, if it was a stat problem wouldnt the temp fluctuate all the time, not just when i go over 70mph?
I'll speak to the mechanic tomoz anyway to see if he has any isdea aswell.

no u will not phisically see the rad cap leaking if it is letting pressure out, could be the thermostat though not opening fully and allowing the coolant to circulate.

do you still run with the EGR and cooler

If it was the cooler cheffy he would have bubbles in the water. Not a critiscm , but personally don't go above 70 or 3000revs as these engines can be a little unpredictable with their headgaskets.

I would double check for airlocks ... make sure the front is raised, its easier and allows the air to rise to the top. These trucks are notorious for being a pain to get airlocks out of

did it have the temp issues before any work was done or just afterwards ?

could just be an airlock true about the cooler too mate

even truer about not going over 70!

As far as i know the egr and cooler are still activated and working, ive only had the truck two weeks. I was thinking maybe the stat needs changing aswell, i might get that done anyway. If i raise the front ronnie then whats the best way to release air?

rise the front and let it tick over with the rad cap off if the water starts to come out the rad put the cap back on the air will still excape through the overflow pipe

some people remove the temp sender but i have never had to do that i just drive the front up the curb or on ramps then let it tick over with the rad cap off and top it up as needed

I still think the stat could be at fault here

As cheffy says about the airlock ... my moneys on an airlock as there were no signs of overheating before, if stats gone too then thats just unfortunate!

Thankyou you two, wish i'd changed that when it went in last week, grrrrrr, i'll get it changed anyway. I'll also raise the front and try that aswell, i'll let you know how i get on 👍🏻

stat is easy to change mate minimal coolant lost too

Hi guys, update for you all, had the thermostat changed and bled, still getting the gauge rising when doing 68mph or above, normally just below centre, but rises to just over 3/4. Like i said earlier, if i slow down again or put the heating on the needle drops again. Do you think it could be the electric fan not kicking in? Not sure how to check it though, any ideas would still be welcome.

Scrub that fan bit lads, just seen on another forum that only works with the aircon, so im still at a total loss!!!!

Quote: DarrenSpain wrote in post #15

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Hi guys, update for you all, had the thermostat changed and bled, still getting the gauge rising when doing 68mph or above, normally just below centre, but rises to just over 3/4. Like i said earlier, if i slow down again or put the heating on the needle drops again. Do you think it could be the electric fan not kicking in? Not sure how to check it though, any ideas would still be welcome.

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Hi Nick, i didnt do the work a mechanic did so not sure if it was flushed, i shall find out though. I'll get a new temp sender, but i cant really see it being that as it seems to work ok, driving around town and under 70mph, put the engine under a bit of pressure and up she rises, its like the rad or something is not man enough to cool the engine under load, but i cant for the life of me work out what it is grrrrrrrrr

Quote: DarrenSpain wrote in post #18

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Hi Nick, i didnt do the work a mechanic did so not sure if it was flushed, i shall find out though. I'll get a new temp sender, but i cant really see it being that as it seems to work ok, driving around town and under 70mph, put the engine under a bit of pressure and up she rises, its like the rad or something is not man enough to cool the engine under load, but i cant for the life of me work out what it is grrrrrrrrr

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check the top and bottom rad hoses aint collapsing under heat and pressure

I'll look into that 123hotchef, the only thing i can see against it being that is the gauge goes to 3/4 then stops, if it was a collapse then surely the temp would keep rising?

Fan clutch is the only thing i can think of, not engaging and drawing enough air through the rad under load, anyone got any ideas how to check this or is it just a case of replacing and hoping?

If you can look at the water pump try putting a long screw driver to the pump and to your ear if it's grinding a little (like a stethoscope) it's on its way out also there's a tell tail hole in the pump see if there's any water residue

try your old rad back on it sounds like your radiator is at fault. was it budget replacement.

It may not collapse totaly just enough to restrict flow. A news paper rolled up and try to stop the fan with engine running. Do u love in spain.