Ok good news and bad news. Gonna keep this as short as possible and cut right to the chase. Good news is the engine turns over on the starter motor lovely. Bad news is it won't start. Did a quick little check on the glow plugs and glow plug relay and they are fine. Relay switches and plugs have 11.5v.

My question is about the ignition pump. My alignment there was 6 or so teeth out upon installing the belt. But the pump when turned alone springs through a quarter turn. I assumed (maybe stupid of me) that it was meant to align on the closest resting point. Ie it would be difficult to align it while the pulley is under load as the pulley wants to spring round the rest of that quarter. Anyone who has played with the injection pump will know what I mean. So I installed my timing belt with the ignition pump slightly out of alignment. Now it won't start. Other than checking I was getting fuel through, and checking glow plugs, this is the next obvious thing that now jumps out at me. Anyone know if it has to be held perfectly in alignment while another person fits the belt?

Of course it has also occurred to me it could be compression, since I have fitted a new head. I will get a compression gauge tomorrow. Anyone know if Halfords one will fit/work?

Otherwise please feel free to offer suggestions?

Yoda mate, the pump has to be as near as possible to the mark I often use a couple of bolts and a bar to hold the pump pulley in the right spot. Are you getting plenty of fuel from the injectors?

Yep injectors fuelling fine. I learnt from my days as an engineer that the problem is nearly always the most obvious and nearly always coincidental with something you haven't done right. Ie far more likely that pump than a faulty new head or a glow plug relay that was working fine. So it doesn't surprise me to hear what you say. In fact it's comforting. Not a massive job to redo the alignment. Have you ever managed that without taking the rad out? I'm thinking it might be possible. Would save a fair bit of time!

I held the pump pulley with a bar while timing it up. Managed to get all the marks to line up fine. Did the turn it back a couple of teeth then forward to check timing, then did a full revolution to check marks again.

Good luck, my fingers are crossed for you

D

Yes mate, fiddly but do-able, be rid of the fan and cowling , then you can get into it. Having fitted all the bits yourself you know where they are and can strip it easier, dont forget to fit the belt in the right direction, sounds stupid but that way you end up with the slack bit at the adjuster.
I have used crocodile clips ( or the end of a jump lead ) to hold the belt onto the pump pulley, this way you can set the belt on the pump and then pull the pulley round a bit ( against the spring) to slip it onto the crank / cam pulley. I have several small-ish croc clips ( about 2.5" ) which I 'fix' the belt in place with while I fit the rest.

Posted by: robl200

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I held the pump pulley with a bar while timing it up. Managed to get all the marks to line up fine. Did the turn it back a couple of teeth then forward to check timing, then did a full revolution to check marks again.

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At least four full revolutions of the crank is my philosophy.......... if the belt happens to be wrong and has a different number of teeth then it will be a noticable way off after four complete turns. Had a belt with one less tooth before on an iveco van, if I had only turned it a couple of times I may not have noticed it and smashed all the valves a while after it started.

Excellent I got croc clips here. Thanks for advice guys. Least I know what problem is now and I should have it running tomorrow. Without taking rad out I think it won't take long to get back that far really. Like you say I'm familiar with it now rather than learning as I go. And yes I did note in the manual about the order to fit the cam belt in. Apart from the injection alignment I followed those instructions and got it perfect first time when I checked the deflection. Not too bad for the first timing belt I've ever fitted1

Will never knock someone for trying to do a job, you have done wonders and I respect you for that mate.. I would suggest that 'Not Too Bad' is a serious understatement.

Well if I'm honest I expected issues / teething problems. And I was pretty certain they would come from my own lack of experience. I've learnt enough new things in my 31 years so far, and spent enough time in engineering of some form that I know how these things go. So, assuming it starts and runs tomorrow 2 mistakes over the whole thing break down and rebuild isn't bad eh! But the experience I have gained from this is priceless! Thanks for the comment Lez. Means a lot honestly. Oh and my electrical training is slowly coming back to me too!! When I get a minute I'm gonna start looking at your cruise control idea.

I can make a speed pulse sensor, need to know that relay you connected to so I can check out if it has a speed signal to it and we can use it. I can make a PWM signal generator and a solenoid is buyable for the top end, we could use a linear actuator and drive it from a FET, controlling a cable through the pedal, small amount of programming to get it to see the speed and if less increase the solenoid... if more decrease the solenoid...
We would need to make a clutch switch bracket and wire into the brake switch....... have to work out the throttle pedal switch though.... are you cable or FBW ?

Cable

Oh Lez as soon as I get the truck running I will be sorting out that relay so I will take picture of it for you.

You only need a universal cruise and a speed sensor from Sailes Transducers... 22 x 1.5 with a butterfly end. you sorted mate, it is only the FBW where the pedal control would be a little more difficult unless I can get my head around the wiring...

one reason i cracked mine up without more than the bottom pulley on was to make sure i had it right, as long as you dont let then run for more than a few seconds it wont harm - or never has in my experience


dont let a wee hiccup put you off luke

Posted by: LezT

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You only need a universal cruise and a speed sensor from Sailes Transducers... 22 x 1.5 with a butterfly end. you sorted mate, it is only the FBW where the pedal control would be a little more difficult unless I can get my head around the wiring...

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I had come to work this much out yeah. Hence my big grin at saying I am cable throttle!

Posted by: treeboa

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one reason i cracked mine up without more than the bottom pulley on was to make sure i had it right, as long as you dont let then run for more than a few seconds it wont harm - or never has in my experience


dont let a wee hiccup put you off luke

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A friend said this too me today too. Get the belt on, double check alignment procedure then turn the key and if it starts kill it. That's what your saying basically right?

And don't sweat it I aint being put off! On some bazaar level actually enjoying this!

Posted by: Yoda

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And don't sweat it I aint being put off! On some bazaar level actually enjoying this!

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Spoken like a true warrior (owner) mate.......I also get a kick from doing it ....... even after 34 yrs.... harder it is the bigger the buzz.

only diff is i had the pulley on mate, if you dont and it goes tits up the timing gears may push the timing ring into the sensor, bolt only needs to me slightly tight for a quick spin, and obviously no loctite

Yeah I bet it is! Time to work on that cruise control then

Posted by: treeboa

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only diff is i had the pulley on mate, if you dont and it goes tits up the timing gears may push the timing ring into the sensor, bolt only needs to me slightly tight for a quick spin, and obviously no loctite

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Brilliant thanks Mike

n keep your fingers out, they not just gonna get tapped

It sounds obvious but I bet someone has lost a few fingers that way!

i saw a scarf get ripped of a numpties neck and into an escort cambelt once, should have seen the `rope burn` he got called the man fords could not hang for a long time after

sheeeesh!