my 2006 new shape auto stalls when coming to a stop and wont idle , its much worse when the engine is warm has anyone had this problem . ive changed various sensors and cleaned manifold out . any help please

Is it the gearbox stalling it or the engine?

Might be worth checking the wiring loom for the autobox underneath ...there were a lot of issues with chaffing wires on the bell housing...its gotta be worth a look...

@Nick knows of a pipe that blocks up on the engine , I've tagged him hopefully he can explain better than I can

Have you checked the boost pipe? it gets blocked inside the alloy tube.
You will need a small drill bit to poke inside, also check the rubber pipe for cracks / splits.

Or could be the SCV that controls the fuel supply

I have changed small vacuum pipes from manifold and checked for blockages , changed SCV , MAF sensor , crankshaft sensor, air filter, replaced fuel filter to an original Mitsubishi filter , cleaned manifold ,cleaned EGR , and throttle body. it idles at about 900rpm when cold but as soon as it warms up it drops to about 600rpm then the engine comes to a shuddering stop an stalls , Could a map sensor cause cutting out problems ??? . I have a guy coming today with a scan tool but with NO EML im lost to where to start , I don't have any experience in car mechanics I just have a bit of a fiddle ( that's what the wife says ) I had a look underneath yesterday and spotted a sort of white plastic long square terminal block (6 inchs long) connected to the wiring loom above the sort of gear box drive shaft area all taped up with brown insulating tape , is that white box normal ? I will try and put a pic on if I can figure out how to do it. I love my truck but ive lost trust in it . Its not the same driving around in a Hyundai I10 . Sorry for the rant . Cheers Seany

Quote: seanyt wrote in post #5

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I have changed small vacuum pipes from manifold and checked for blockages , changed SCV , MAF sensor , crankshaft sensor, air filter, replaced fuel filter to an original Mitsubishi filter , cleaned manifold ,cleaned EGR , and throttle body. it idles at about 900rpm when cold but as soon as it warms up it drops to about 600rpm then the engine comes to a shuddering stop an stalls , Could a map sensor cause cutting out problems ??? . I have a guy coming today with a scan tool but with NO EML im lost to where to start , I don't have any experience in car mechanics I just have a bit of a fiddle ( that's what the wife says ) I had a look underneath yesterday and spotted a sort of white plastic long square terminal block (6 inchs long) connected to the wiring loom above the sort of gear box drive shaft area all taped up with brown insulating tape , is that white box normal ? I will try and put a pic on if I can figure out how to do it. I love my truck but ive lost trust in it . Its not the same driving around in a Hyundai I10 . Sorry for the rant . Cheers Seany

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yes it started maybe once a week or 2 weeks then got worse

had the truck on a scan tool yesterday and at idle showed....

absolute throttle position 100% ( this was in red numbers)
absolute throttle position D 0%
absolute throttle position E 0%
does that mean anything to anyone

Looks like it's is working ok. It's the same as the classic by the look of it - the TPS has two sensors (variable resistors) - one reads 0% at idle, 100% at full throttle. The other sensor works the other way round (100% at idle, going to 0 at full throttle). The ECU then uses both inputs to calculate the position (presumably for safety, and maybe also accuracy). If everything is working ok the ECU calculated position should be the same as given by the first sensor.

the throttle position D and E both went up as I revved but the other throttle position never moved from 100% just a flat line