Hi all,

Sorry my first post to the forum is mwith a problem but, here it is.

2011 Warrior 2.5 4x4 series 4 KB4T 4D56

bought the warrior 14 days ago, since then after a check over made a list of required work.

So - needed timing belt and balancing shaft belts, pulleys and tensioners (well overdue) - all now changed and are fine
Water pump changed too along with thermostat
Rear springs, bushes and hangers all changed
Both Rear shockers changed
Rear Brake shoes changed
OSF wheel hub and bearing unit changed
OSF Disc dust guard replaced
Both front calipers changed
Front brake pads
both front calipers

After finishing all this work, bled the brakes and the pedal still felt soft (static bleed and with the engine running) I've checked the servo and pipes and all feels fine, no signs of leaks, hoses seem to be in good order (some signs of corrosion on the crimped metal ends but nothing that would raise an eyebrow), it has ABS thus no Load Sensing Valve (that I can see anyway).

When the engine is off, pedal is rock solid/steady no sinking away, once the engine is started the pedal fairly quickly sinks to the floor, took it for a drive, rebled the brakes with engine running no difference, I've removed the M/C from servo and looked at the piston end and it all looks dry no fluid seepage, peeled back the dust covers on the rear wheel cylinders and they look dry, I'm struggling to fathem this one guys any further suggestions/ideas would be most welcome as I'm still getting to know this beast and it's little quirks.

I have checked the forum for similar issues but, none seem to fit mine exactly, I don't have any warning lights illuminated on the dash and no ABS lights on, brake fluid is DOT4 and new

Thank you for your advice in advance

Hi Phil welcome aboard, pretty extensive list of done jobs for 14 days in, nice one. Sounds like you may have air in the ABS pump/ module itself , I know this can be a right sod to sort out , I've not managed it myself yet, still got spongy brakes. I have read it's possible using a good OBD2 scanner. Hope you get a better response than this mate. G'dluck.

Thank you Daviemtc, basically what I was thinking to be honest, if I could get the ABS pump to cycle for each wheel and purge any air then I’m sure it would be good to go.

I've been mulling it over and have decided to replace the rear brake cylinders, this will eliminate them completely from the equation, the brake pipes have been replaced by a previous owner at some stage so will inspect the seats when I have them out, it’s puzzling but the only way to track the issue is to start from basics and take it step by step.

so what were the brakes like before you started changing things.

have a look at this it may give you some ideas..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGU-glkL2B0
It's for a Volvo but the principle's the same I suppose.

Thank You Daviemtc I'll give it a look, g7afm, diffucult to say, I drove it on road test a wee while ago, then brokered a deal with the owner, he drove the Warrior to my home 2 weeks ago as he still had insurance etc so made things easier for me, so didn't drive it on the road, just jacked it up for a full check over so I could order the parts required, however, a close friend has sat in it and even he says something's not right, I'll be replacing the rear wheel cylinders today so will report how things are progressing when I get the chance.

can you put a clamp on all four corner fiexi brake pipes & see if that improves the pedal if it does remove one clamp at a time until the pedal goes soft
should help to point you in the right direction .