Usually a die grinder.

For the delip that is. Then some rough glasspaper to deglaze.

i can do that some people rough up the shiny bit too inside the drum dont they

Yup. Deglaze the drum and rough shoes up. Also nice to shamfer the shoes, especially the leading, if they dont already come that way.

anothing thing to do! ha ha ah well I suppose at least no one was hurt

Well took both rear drumbs off no sign of leakage there so gets the mrs to pump the brakes and there it is brake fluid shooting out the front flexi must have been crushed between wishbone and bump stop

Glad you found it Cheffy and also glad no one got hurt like you say. Could have been alot worse. But how it got trapped and cut in first place is what i'd be wanting to find out after replacing it. And checking the opposite side one also.

That is what happens when people lift a ttruck and replace the 2 short hoses with 1 longer one.

Then you need to find a fixing method / point that keeps it away from anything under lock to locks and compression / rebound. Probably something as simple as a bracket attached to the upper control arm like i believe the initial design was.

yeh i need to take a good look at that mate thought about drilling the top of the wishbone area near the upper ball joint and making a bracket up.

or just order some shorter hoses and keeping them as 2 joined in the middle but I would prefer 1 longer 1 i think

If its any use to ya Cheffy when i changed out my old k34 ucas for the now fitted 74s with a bj spacer lift i reused the original bracket that bolts to the arm. Had to reposition it, drill into arm then tap out a thread but does mean i kept the two flexies and there's no fouling under any kind of articulation. Maybe the better option for you too.

mines are welded on mate and they have also been cheffiefried lol had to make the holes wider to take the longer hoses

maybe i will order another replacement longer hose and just make up a couple of brackets hell even cable ties would keep the flexies where i want them if needed

Cut the welded ones off. Bit of thick guage sheet steel with a 90 degree angle and a hole to accept the flexy ferrule and job done. Cable ties WILL fail a mot. Inappropriate repair / modification.

sounds good to me was thinking to bolt them on near the upper ball joint maybe even use the same bolt

ordered 4 new flexi brake lines today 3 for truck 2!

and a box of nice rubber linned P clips not making the same mistake twice

new brake line fitted drilled original brackets in the end and used a P clip to keep them where I want them

what a barstuard to bleed the brakes after I think air must have got into the master cylinder

Now it won't get squashed again

Brakes are now sorted better than ever

Take it it was your master cylinder then? remember they are better and don't go through the windscreen!

It's nice to have good brakes isn't it!

I think it had air in the MC yes, oh they are as good as my VW now no kidding new dot 4 fluid throughout too

Mrs calls me this morning truck wont start, me thinks the battery must be fooked now it is still the original so it aint done bad
so I talk her through how to jump it from a new battery I have in the garage but first she has to find it!
then she has to find the jump leads behind the back seat after figuring out how to open back seat
it jumps just fine so I guess I better stop nursing this old battery and fit the new one I have had for a year now huh

just welded the rear hanger back onto the back box ready for the peaks greased it all up went to take the dust caps of and fook the whole brass insert comes out of the valve, ned to get 4 new valves now!

You have just reminded me I need to grease up the old girl, and if time allows fit the third bash plate, it was about no 53 on the list, lol

i did look at the 4th bash plate but it aint painted and i have got more pressing things to fix!