Hmm will have to take a look when my mate has them out his car...

they`ll probably have four flat down plates securing them to any slider assembly he may have - you`ll most likely find a different track width as I did, and have to change it, thats why I used the original carcass chassis

Did you have to modify the existing subframe at all other than nuts/bolts/washers?

nah, but like I say the seats do sit higher with the mitsi subframe underneath

Hmmmmm interesting. May be able to get them in a couple of weeks...

Do it Rob cos standard seats don`t support you round corners at all

Well, got the new seats. Here's a pic...



The underside of the seat looks like this...


The photo is pants, but you should be able to see a set of bolt holes in the framework and also a set in the tabs that come off the sides.

I decided to remove the passenger seat and see how easy (or not) this was going to be....

Remove centre console + handbrake surround (4x cross head screws, 2 in the storage box, 2 in front of the handbrake)
Undo 4x 14mm bolts holding the seat to the floor. The seat can now be removed from the truck.
With the seat upside down you should be able to see 4x 12mm bolts. Remove these and unclip the slide cable from the underside of the seat base and it will come off the frame.
Remove the seatbelt clip (1x 17mm bolt)
Remove the 10 mm bolt holding the inside runner to the back of the seat.
Remove the tilt and slide levers (1x cross head screw each)
Remove the plastic from the outside rail (2x cross head screws, 1 near the slide lever and one at the back at the rear of the pivot).
Remove 2 x 14mm bolts that hold the seat runner on to the back of the seat and the runner should pull clear.

I offered up the seat rails to the underside of the new seat and annoyingly it doesn't fit...
The bolt holes on the runners look like they will line up with the holes that are on the box section of the seats but the rails won't go far enough inboard due to the plates for the seatbelt clip and where the old pivot mechanism bolted to. It looks like they would fit if the holes in the tabs lined up as the runners should be far enough apart if bolted to these but the spacing is wrong.

I think I'll try pull the new seats apart and get new tabs welded on at the correct spacing....

or else used flat holed bar and that`ll save taking the seats apart (a potential nightmare) nylok nuts, position it all then tighten `em up.

Is that how yours are bolted in?

its how they bolt to the subframe that fits into the original sliders, yes rob. this makes them higher than if the seats went straight onto the orighinal sliders, but I don`t mind that. If you had a holed strip across both bolt holes(left to right) on either side, it shouldn`t be too tricky to match up the original sliders and the original frame and not have the extra height?

Not too fussed about extra height. Just want to make sure I end up with something safe. Can try get some flat bar and cut and shut it as necessary....

Them is some nice seats Rob! What material are they?

Don't think they are anything particularly fancy material wise... They are a little tatty but the drivers seat in my truck is looking really tired. Best bit is they were very cheap

weld to the mits ones

Quote: robl200 wrote in post #36

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Not too fussed about extra height. Just want to make sure I end up with something safe. Can try get some flat bar and cut and shut it as necessary....

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