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Happy New Year to All!!!

My 2009 2 door "4 work" has developed a prob with the offside door lock. The key goes in OK and was opening with no problem, but now it refuses to turn! I'm not sure if its the lock (tumbler?), or whether something else(actuator rod / lever?). How do I get the lock out of the door to check the lock function? I've taken the door card off, and undone the torx bolt in the side of the door edge. This loosens the lock but I still cant seem to find anything else holding it in? What am I missing? It's not central locking at the minute, but I am thinking that while I have the door in bits, then I might fit a kit, it seems cheap enough?
Werbung: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160889872451?_...K%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I've given up today due to loosing the sense of feeling in my fingers,,,,,,it's cold!!
Any advice re lock removal would be welcomed!!
or opinions on the CL kit?

Holmezy

with the window up and the door card off , you may have to pull back the plastic seethrough stuff from the door, you should find there is a C clip type of thing that slides out that holds the barrel in place. No need to undo the torx bolts. My drivers lock did this a while back and I just squirted a ton of WD40 and put the key in and out a dozen times and it cured it. When mine played up it wouldn't turn, almost as if it was the wrong key.

you can see the C clip bit in this picture

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I have lock probs, go out and I can never get back in!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That's what I thought! but it seems that there isnt a clip on this yr model, or I cant see, the clip? I've pulled the clear plastic away, and even undone the glass winder mechanism but still cant get access to the lock? I've no idea whats holding it in? Undoing the torx bolt defo makes the lock loose, but still doesnt allow removal? With the lock being towards the edge of the door, all the handle / lock workings are behind the metal of the inner door? It was a quick look/see and I intend to have another look when my fingers thaw out,,,perhaps next weekend!!

I also tried flooding the lock with wd40,,,,,,,,,,,no joy!!

I think I used a screwdriver to lever out the clip on mine as the bit you "pull" was the other side of the lock so couldn't get to it easily ........ it then went twang and dropped into the depths of the door
by the time I'd dug that back out and took the barrel out the WD had worked
@123hotchef recommends some sort of carbon filings or something like that for locks , he'll tell you what he used when he reads this

Hi Krutly, are we talking about the same model? The locks in your picture look exactly like the ones I took off my 1998 model, my current one is a 2009 and seems to have been designed with people with fingers that are 10" long and have universal joints rather than knuckles in mind, rather than normal folks? Just been out and had another look, but still no wiser? Im not suggesting you are not right, but I'm still missing something? Also, theres a plastic cover that makes up part of the handle that Id expect to come off, but, again, I cant budge it?
I've used carbon filings previously, its a natural lubricant, like graphite paste?

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Do I need to remove the winding mechanism completely and get my podgy hands up into the top right corner?

Graphite powder is the best thing for locks

id fit that kit u linked too or a similar one for £8 on ebay

Lee, I would give up 'cheffing' and go work for Mitsi, you would make a packet mate!!!

i would love too

Quote: Holmezy wrote in post #8

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Do I need to remove the winding mechanism completely and get my podgy hands up into the top right corner?

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I've never taken mine out,

Found this in the manual;

DOOR LOCK

CENTRAL DOOR LOCKING




•A central door locking system has been installed in the club cab and double cab <Vehicles with central door locking system>.

•Central door locking system that locks and unlocks all doors via the driver’s door key cylinder or the driver’s door inner lock knob has been adopted.

•A child protection is used to prevent the rear doors from being opened accidentally during driving.

•Key-in prevention function has been introduced for driver’s door.

•"P" position shift linked door-unlock function has been introduced. <Vehicles with automatic transmission with keyless entry system>

•Direct combination key cylinder mechanism has been adopted to maintain its function at the side collision and improve theft protection.



DESCRIPTION OF STRUCTURE AND OPERATION



CENTRAL DOOR LOCKING SYSTEM


•All doors are locked when all of them are closed and the driver’s door key cylinder or the driver’s door inner lock knob is operated to the locking direction.

•The driver’s door can be opened by pulling the driver’s door inner handle even when the driver’s door inner lock knob is in the locked position. This function is called "Override function".

•

When the driver’s door is locked (when the lock switch turns ON after turning OFF the unlock switch in the driver’s door lock actuator), ETACS-ECU turns ON the lock relay output for 0.25 second, and locks all doors. When the driver’s door is unlocked (when the unlock switch turns ON after turning OFF the lock switch on the driver’s door lock actuator), ETACS-ECU turns ON the unlock relay output for 0.25 second, and unlocks all doors.



KEY-IN PREVENTION FUNCTION

If the driver’s door remained open, it cannot be locked even though the driver’s door key cylinder or driver’s side inside lock knob is pushed. This prevents the ignition key from being left in the passenger compartment.


"P" POSITION SHIFT LINKED DOOR-UNLOCK FUNCTION <VEHICLES WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION WITH KEYLESS ENTRY SYSTEM>

When the selector lever is shifted to the "P" (parking) position, all the doors will unlock, improving passengers’ convenience during alighting. Using a customisation feature, the "P" position shift linked door-unlock function can be changed (Refer to ).


DIRECT COMBINATION KEY CYLINDER MECHANISM


•

When doors are unlocked, an impact of a side collision is not easily transmitted to the door latch structurally, improving door opening performance.

•Even if any door key cylinder is attempted to be tampered with the doors locked, the tampering force is not easily transmitted to the door latch to deter thieves.

http://www.silent-cities.com/L200forum/P...7518AB00ENG.png

There may be a video on YouTube which helps, but I can't access it atm

Thanks for the replies, but I'm still no wiser! Mine is a basic 2009 "4 work" 2 door. It doesn't have central locking. I need to get at the lock barrel on the drivers door and know think that I need to remove the whole handle assembly, (rather than just the lock as older models). Think I need to undo the torx bolt in the side of the door, release the rod from the inside of the door / handle, then gently tap the handle until it lifts out? Anyone able to add to this? I'll not get chance until weekend probably but any ideas?

Thanks

probably that is like the VWs no biggie but just fit the leccie kit job done for £8

Quote: Holmezy wrote in post #15

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Thanks for the replies, but I'm still no wiser! Mine is a basic 2009 "4 work" 2 door. It doesn't have central locking. I need to get at the lock barrel on the drivers door and know think that I need to remove the whole handle assembly, (rather than just the lock as older models). Think I need to undo the torx bolt in the side of the door, release the rod from the inside of the door / handle, then gently tap the handle until it lifts out? Anyone able to add to this? I'll not get chance until weekend probably but any ideas?

Thanks

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