Gonna look awesome!

Hopefully yea,i just want to crack on with it so it can be finished

Hey Rich, I think you'll only get a 1.5 inch lift when setting shacklez at 3inches as the axle is half way along the springs and its the end if the spring that you're lifting. I could be wrong though its years since I've done any lever/pivot/fulcrum kind of maths but I'm sure someone will know for sure

Top work with the lift mate I've already printed off your "steps" so I can educate my "spanner monkeys" on what is required

This is the first time i have done a leaf spring lift so not 100% sure how high the end lift is going to be tbh

My blood red shackles are called 3 inch extension shackles but are known to give an actual 2.5 inch lift. I asked Lez about his shackles and he tells me they will do a true 4 inch lift.

the shackles i got are ones from Lez so i should get a decent lift then

From what I understand they will do a 2, 3 or 4 inch lift. I said to him, as you know, that I want to fit his shackles and your bj spacers to get 4 inch lift without a body lift. He said it would work. So from my perspective that answers the question.

I did mine (with lots of help from spanner handy mates) the week before I came down to you. I sprayed my nuts liberally (ooh er) with WD days before and it payed off as every bolt undid(with air tools) first time. It did take a bit of fettling to open out the ends of the shacklez as they were a bit on the narrow side but was done with relative ease in a vice with a bit of leverage. And I shaved a mill or 2 off the poly bushes too. took about an hour to do for a couple of us with just a trolley jack etc.
you truck is going they way of Lucifer already ......... Good man !! I bet you can't wait for the wheels and tyres to go on now though eh?
by the way my wheel carrier "locked up" but plenty of force and WD sorted that out(and an air ratchet on the turny/rotatey gizmo)

That's what i thought.There is gonna be a slight delay on getting the balljoint spacers as Mark has been promoted at work and has a massive backlog of paperwork to do.I am hoping that by moving the balljoints that will give me the lift to fit the tyres.He did say he will get them made quick for me but i said for him to sort work first as thats a priority atm

No worries I'm a few months of doing the second lift anyway. I'm firm on not wanting a body lift if I can avoid it so I have to buy the bj spacers, Lez's shackles, some +2 shocks and brake extensions all at the same time. So the timing will probably work out just fine. As you know before then I am doing the arches (although not paying for more than the courier) bigger wheel spacer and possibly the water injection. So the timing may work out just fine by the time Mark gets the spacers into production.

Posted by: krutly

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I did mine (with lots of help from spanner handy mates) the week before I came down to you. I sprayed my nuts liberally (ooh er) with WD days before and it payed off as every bolt undid(with air tools) first time. It did take a bit of fettling to open out the ends of the shacklez as they were a bit on the narrow side but was done with relative ease in a vice with a bit of leverage. And I shaved a mill or 2 off the poly bushes too. took about an hour to do for a couple of us with just a trolley jack etc.
you truck is going they way of Lucifer already ......... Good man !! I bet you can't wait for the wheels and tyres to go on now though eh?
by the way my wheel carrier "locked up" but plenty of force and WD sorted that out(and an air ratchet on the turny/rotatey gizmo)

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I was just wondering that i could probably get the lift temporary by just spacing the balljoint with some ht nuts till the spacers are ready.That way i could tell if the spacers are going to actually work well.
I was thinking of getting equevilent to 35's but thought i would lose to much power.

Difficult decision isn't it. 33's lose less power but 35's would look the dogs!

From bloodred:
"These shackles are 3" longer than the standard shackle and will give around 2" of lift ..."

Posted by: stormforce

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get the lift temporary by just spacing the balljoint with some ht nuts till the spacers are ready

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Whoa there mate you're well out of my league with that kind of stuff but it doesn't sound like the safest thing to do there bud, you got to keep the truck in one piece till I've seen it at least. On the other hand you are the balljoint spacer master after all

Posted by: Danne

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From bloodred:
"These shackles are 3" longer than the standard shackle and will give around 2" of lift ..."

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Yep. And I measured it too. They've been manufactured to match the 2.5 inch front end lift that you get if you wind up your torsion bars to 22 inches.

Good to see someone really going for it with a proper big lift to be honest. Too many of us pansy around with small lifts and Rich goes straight for 5 inches!

Posted by: krutly

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Posted by: stormforce

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get the lift temporary by just spacing the balljoint with some ht nuts till the spacers are ready

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Whoa there mate you're well out of my league with that kind of stuff but it doesn't sound like the safest thing to do there bud, you got to keep the truck in one piece till I've seen it at least. On the other hand you are the balljoint spacer master after all

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I may just do it to see what it looks like and so i can see how the spacers will look on there.I wouldn't want to do serious travelling like it till i get the spacers

Looking good Stormforce,

Just a quick one, you mention removing the old mounting blocks if you want, and i see from your pictures you have. If I wanted to keep them would you recommend they go on top of the new 2" lift block or underneath? or does it not really matter? I ask because they look to be made of some sort of hard rubber and I thought they may have been designed to stop a bit of vibration into the cab.
Also they're about 1" high, so if I got a 2" lift block and didn't keep the original body mount, in effect I'm only lifting the truck by 1" overall, if you know what I mean. Hope that made sense!

The original mounts actually sit in a cup and sit about 1/2" above the cup.Cause i had the 2.5" i took the old mounts out but i would say to leave them in for a 2" as some lift blocks are not a big in circumferance as the ones i have.I may at some point get some thin rubber to put between the body and the blocks if there's to much vibration

Posted by: stormforce

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It is easy to do mate honestly.It'sa 2.5" lift and the only hoses i bought were the brake lines.The coolant hoses were ok as they are

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good stuff! think i know what my next mod is now!

i'll only do the 1.5" lift though as i've just bough +3 hoses but +2 on the front (dont ask why lol). am i corrict in thinking that you dont have to do anything with the centre console or gear sticks when doing a 1.5" lift?

Posted by: TwedL200

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Posted by: stormforce

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It is easy to do mate honestly.It'sa 2.5" lift and the only hoses i bought were the brake lines.The coolant hoses were ok as they are

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good stuff! think i know what my next mod is now!

i'll only do the 1.5" lift though as i've just bough +3 hoses but +2 on the front (dont ask why lol). am i corrict in thinking that you dont have to do anything with the centre console or gear sticks when doing a 1.5" lift?

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you should be able to get away with it bit if not then it will just be a bit of fettling to do

I think you still do Tewd : How to :- Body lift 1.5" Thanks to Stick

Though note Rich seems to have take a different approach with the gear stick to what Stick did.

Posted by: Yoda

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Though note Rich seems to have take a different approach with the gear stick to what Stick did.

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i did mine this way due to the fact i haven't a welder or neither can i weld and i found it quicker to do aswell.I will tidy the consol up at a later date so its not so obvious

Think you way works just fine to be honest.