Going to copy a few others and put all my mods and work here from now on. Not exactly starting from the beginning with this thread, but I can't be bothered to go over everything done so far!

Today did tappets which solved warm start issues. Or at least seems to has solved them after several warm starts tonight.

While I was at it I swapped rocker covers for the polished one from Rooferman.





Not sure those photo's get across just how shiney it looks Probably only puts me thirs behind Danne and Joinerdan mind you!

get that heat sink pipe off and sprayed up man! - 1/2 hour, tops

Pointless mate, putting a front mount in

what did you `do` to the tappets?

Set the valve clearance correctly. They were too tight, causing warm starts to be bit slow.

why don`t you read the thread regarding tappets Basil ya dipstick !!

hehehehhe

That engine bay need a good clean up to be anywhere close to Danne's.

I have a steam cleaner

I'm so busy with work right now that the truck has gone into MitsiArt today for some bits n bobs. Injection pump being checked to see if we can solve the starting. Diffs, transfer case, gear box, and axle oils being changed. And they are going to cast an eye over that oil patch for me.

Then I'll be doing a new exhaust and veg filter housing at the weekend.

Not exactly a day of conclusive answers. MitsiArt allowed the truck to cool down to see what cold starts were like. Typically he then called me and said "It fired up just fine, what's wrong with it?" I naturally said that has to be sods law, please take a look at the IP timing. I got a call back later saying that they had noticed the main filter had no O ring in the plug. It was co mooted that this was the cause of my oil patch under the gear box, and also the cause of the bad tick over on veg / stalling on veg. I had no idea there was meant to be an O ring there but hey, something learnt. So it must have been gone for some time! More on the results of this later. They then got to changing the oils as requested. But by this point he was convinced that the IP timing was sound, as in his word it would not run as well as it does if it was out. At this point I was done with work and went back there. He started it up to show me and it took 3 or 4 turns to fire. He said "Is this what you are trying to fix?" I said yes, but it has been worse! He said that this was well within Mitsubishi's tolerances for starting, hot or cold, and he did not want to strip it down to the IP and charge me for it when he believed it was unlikely to be anything wrong. He quizzed me about the valve tappets and to cut a long story short he is ADAMANT that it needs to be set to 0.25mm HOT, and that 0.15 COLD (as shown on here) IS NOT the same thing. Convo ensued about what would expand when things are hot and how gaps would be effected etc..... short story is he said he would set the tappets to 0.25 hot and try that if I desired better starting, which he reiterated in his mind was actually ok anyway. So with most of the day gone I paid them for the oil changes and went on my way saying I would do the tappets to 0.25 and see what happens.... At least, so I thought, my veg tick over should be sorted.....

........it's not. As bad as ever. Fair play he found a seal missing. But it hasn't fixed anything. When you switch to diesel tickover is perfect. So now I am going to check the IP timing myself and the tappets again hopefully at the weekend. And a new filter housing from Treeboa in hope of fixing the veg tickover. I do have air in the first couple of inches of the return line from the IP. Seems to be there on veg and diesel. So don't know if that is a factor or not to be honest.

About to upload a video of the bad tick over.....

So in short, no real progress and as usual I am going to have to do things myself. I don't knock them at all, they are trying to save me money. I just really want to fix these two issues now.....

Video of my tickover on veg. Eventually, it will stall.
http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa398/Luke_Elliott/02E17255-27CB-4A72-ABCE-5C6C7747A451-206-00000026EA447E63_zps9f255a86.mp4

Edit - I am NOT touching the throttle at all there!

it doesn't seem to like veg.

I hear ya. But putting it bluntly, I ain't willing to accept that one yet.

I would be looking for an air leak on the veg fuel side Luke...deffo sounds like its sucking air to me...

separate container hung in the bonnet and piped direct use first diesel, then if it runs ok then try veg, to me thats showing signs of air ingress

Quote: LezT wrote in post #15

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I would be looking for an air leak on the veg fuel side Luke...deffo sounds like its sucking air to me...

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Quote: treeboa wrote in post #16

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separate container hung in the bonnet and piped direct use first diesel, then if it runs ok then try veg, to me thats showing signs of air ingress

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Wenn Sie hier auf Links zu eBay klicken und einen Kauf tätigen, kann dies dazu führen, dass diese Website eine Provision erhält.

Oh, and I bought this:
Werbung: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MITSUBISHI-L20...6#ht_901wt_1029

He accepted £210 for it.

dont pipe it through the filter, go direct on as short a pipe as poss

am i right in thinking the veg kit your using uses mainly semi hard pipe with short rubber pipe connectors, if this is the case i would seriously consider replacing all that type of pipe fitting so that your using normal rubber type fuel pipes, each joint has the ability to leak if not 100%

It'll start on the button only if the fuel supply is good and there is plenty of heat and compression.
ps Had Rob in today and made headway on cetane boosters.

Quote: treeboa wrote in post #20

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dont pipe it through the filter, go direct on as short a pipe as poss

am i right in thinking the veg kit your using uses mainly semi hard pipe with short rubber pipe connectors, if this is the case i would seriously consider replacing all that type of pipe fitting so that your using normal rubber type fuel pipes, each joint has the ability to leak if not 100%

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only time i have used semi pipe was when using compression fitting with top hats inside the pipe to stop it crushing, even then i have had to use ptfe tape on the olive joints

Quote: LezT wrote in post #21

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It'll start on the button only if the fuel supply is good and there is plenty of heat and compression.
ps Had Rob in today and made headway on cetane boosters.

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Quote: treeboa wrote in post #23

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only time i have used semi pipe was when using compression fitting with top hats inside the pipe to stop it crushing, even then i have had to use ptfe tape on the olive joints

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