Hi Guy's......In a desperate place at the moment.
Got a 2007 (B40), and a few months ago it started to show the engine management and traction/ABS light, which put it into limp mode. Pulled over and turned engine off and re-started, and it cleared for quite a while. However, as time went by this started to happen more frequently, to a point now where its about every 2 miles or so.
Wife took it into one of out local garages who read the codes etc, and he said to her that it was either the turbo actuator and or turbs, and after looking at it, confirmed that the disc (Flap) inside the turbo was ceased.
To be honest, when I heard this, I doubted it as it showed traction and ABS lights etc. Anyway, I purchased a reasonable code reader, and cleared all the codes. Left it a couple of days, and re-read any codes that came back. OUCH!!!!....13x in total, as listed below.

P0089 - Suction control valve. Was going to replace it with a new OEM, until they said the price. Yikes £375 for a small part. Even Europarts quoted £475, but got it down to £367. Now looking on Ebay, and prices for a new one are around £60 (Much better). Will replacing this part clear the fault?.

The others below, I have not got a clue as yet, and any suggestions, would be very gratefully received.

U1120
U1102
U1437
U1430
C1292
U1104
U1105
U1101
U1109
U1100
U1073
B1401

Apart from surging now and then, and this recent problem, it has been all good.
Thanks guy's

If you have a manuel gearbox, U1101 is just saying you have a manual, because it cant see the auto! B1401 is an airbag issue (if youre not happy handling explosives - book it into a mechanic). Your C1292 is the traction and ABS faults.

Mineis an Auto box. Coould one or two problems/errors bring up more than one code?. As the mechanic who read the code/s stated it was either the turbo actuator and or turbo itself?. I am gonna tackle the P0089 fault first, then I need to replace the thermostat and change out all the coolant, and as a precaution, I might change the turbo actuator, which is a cheap part anyway.
Am I right in saying that if the top radiator pipe gets hot but the bottom one doesnt, could it be the thermostat? Cheers

Then you need to check the cables hidden by the box for wear and tear (Known main point of issue). Actually, the hose temps should be hotter to the top than bottom - top is inlet to rad. I'm not sure about stacking codes for one fault, but also you can get domino codes where a sensor sends the wrong or no data to a control which messes the flow of information up.

Thanks. Haven't got a clue on where to check for the cables. Could you point me in the right direction?.
I thought that when the engine gets up to temperature and the fan kicks in, the thermostat then opens to allow the water to flow and return to the radiator?. So if the stat had packed up, then water wouldnt flow

Quote: Bootsie wrote in post Automatic transmission problem

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Output shaft speed sensor is positioned on top of gearbox most in centre it detects the speed of the transfer drive gear and srnds an impilse current to the automatic transmission ECU. To check it is working unplug amd check on the harness side of the connector, resistence between terminal i and earth should be less than 2ohm.
Common fault for this trouble code is bad contact on one of the connectors on the gearbox loom as it is attached to the gearbox. Often it can be caused by wear in the actual loom vibration causes wear on the autobox looms and you will probably find some wear in the insulation causing it to short out either to earth or two wires touching. Particular place to check is where the loom is clipped to the gearbox, some have been found to be clipped too tight and over time vibration causes insulation to fail, if you cant find an obvious problem with wear or dirty connector you will have to check continuity between connectors on each wire until you find the fault, its an awkward loom to get at if you have to do this and may need the gearbox lowering slightly for you to get easier access.

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Quote: Bootsie wrote in post Automatic transmission problem

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This has happened to other owners where two sensors have been replaced to no effect - in both cases the loom was later found to be worn and wire was bared. Usually where the loom is fastened to the gearbox casing, the ciips are very tight and over time with vibration and movement of the gearbox they eventually lose the insulation and short. it needs fixing before 2 or more wires wear and touch because they could cause more damage especially to the ECU. One guy found so many faults he just fitted a new loom but it was quite expensive. but fixed the problem.
This has been the subject of 6 threads on different forums, mainly in 2006-2008 auto gearboxes, time consuming job but a cheap fix if you find the fault.

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Quote: Bootsie wrote in post Automatic transmission problem

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if you remive the clips on the loom starting at the front of the gearbox one at a time you should be able to spot the wear, failing that, with the ignition off, just test for continuity on each seperate wire between connectors on the gearbox loom.

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Wow, sounds like a lot of work ahead...cheers

And that's before the touchy feely of ALL of the cables into the box to see if one of the clips has clipped one of the cables...

yikes

Well....What a complete waste of time and money.....Replaced the suction control valve and cleared error code (P0089), for it to only come back. WTF.......What could it be now?

if you have a agritune/ralliart/chip these can sometimes cause problems if they go faulty
might be worth checking if you have one and disconnecting it to eliminate that as a cause of your issues

Thanks krutly, not sure. Where would it be located?.

usually up near the battery in the engine bay or down under the glovebox side panel area on the passenger side

Hi

I have a 2007/57 plate L200 warrior manual with a very similar problem. 108K, FSH.
Goes into limp mode generally when you slow down or of you start and don’t pull off straight away. The EML is up and the traction control lights, switch off and on and your ok until next roundabout!
Loads of fault codes, suction control valve and fuel filter have been replaced. Garage is at a loss and says its a wiring fault as it still sating suction control value, auto transmission fault and cambus faults. Took it to a “Mitsubishi specialist” who said it was EGR and auction control valve. Cleaned the EGR and said I need to go back to the other garage as they fitted the suction control valve.
Original garage say there is nothing wrong with the suction control valve and think there is a fault in the wiring loom.

Can anyone offer any help please? Its booked into Main dealer next week, feel like I’m going in circles!