Hi all
I have had my bottom pulley replaced by a very good mechanic but there is a bit of wobble at idle. When reving engine no wobble at all. New pulley ,bolt and all bits from miliners.

I think others have said in the past to either use a new bolt from Mitsubishi or to reuse the old bolt as long as there is no damage
lots of stuff to check like keyways and crank noses so I shall let the more knowledgeable ones give you some advice (although many will not be logged on till later this evening)
something is definitely amiss if it's wobbling though bud

should not be wobbling at all, is the belt tensioned correctly?

The guy who did it is a good mechanic so hope belt is done right. Could the pulley be unbalanced can this happen?

nah the bolt and key hold it square was the old one damaged?

are you sure it is wobbling?

If the old pulley/key are damaged they can wobble and cause damage to the end of the crank.

Yeah old one was worn so replaced it. The pulley is wobbleing but only at idle

worn but not dammaged in any way shape or form?

Yeah old one only worn not damaged

Wobbling at idle but not as high revs suggests to me that the bolt is loose, or the washer has fractured, after market washers are known to fracture, was the bolt torqued to PFT and loctited?

was torqued to 180nm and loctight. ok if washer has fractured is it a big job to replace ie will new timing belt need to come off

Shouldn't have to take the timing belt off but may need the auxiliary belts off if you can't get to it from underneath, TBH I'd be tempted to strip it down to make sure the key ways and crank nose were okay.
It is common for the bolt to work loose as well especially if not loctited which can cause damage to the crank and key ways as can a shattered washer.
I done mine twice during my ownership and I re used the old bolt and washer loctited the bolt, popped the starter out and locked the flywheel and tightened the crank bolt with a big breaker bar to as tight as I could get it PFT, I've heard of folk using impact guns but that's a recipe for disaster IMO

I used a new bolt and pulley and reused the washer and key when I did mine. Has been ok for over 30k miles now. Washers from eBay were known to fracture

Thanks guys for your help just found out the threads on the shaft were not good don't know why he did the job in the fist place wtf. So now what New engine grrrrrrr don't have that sort of cash in my back pocket

Crank can be replaced but is a faff. Wonder if there's anyway to save/repair the threads.

Yeah will have to look into this
replace crank is it worth it 174000 miles on the truck but still in good nick apart from this issue

Quote: mbuna wrote in post #15

---

Thanks guys for your help just found out the threads on the shaft were not good don't know why he did the job in the fist place wtf. So now what New engine grrrrrrr don't have that sort of cash in my back pocket

---

there is a system called helicoil where the drill crank nose while engine is still in car. my new pulley wobbles had mitsi have a look and said 3mm wobble will be ok.

If it's wobbling then it's out of balance and that's what causes the bolts to shear or work loose and wreck the crank nose,threads and keyway, I think I'd be getting that in writing from mitsi, I take it that it's wobbling on a new pulley, if so there must be damage to the crank or the helicoil is squint.
A helicoil would be be a bugger to do accurately on the car, the crank is also hardened steel and would be bit of a job wo do with a hand drill.
Tbh if the treads are damaged it's highly likely that the keyways are as well and that being the case it's a new crank, unless it's being fannied up and flogged

Probably 2 best courses of action would be either milners short engine for around £800 or rebuild yours with a new crank if it can't be saved. Saw one recently on here where the guy tig'd the keyway to remedy some damage so maybe something similar could be done for yours?

The rebuild kit + labour will probably cost near enough the same as the short engine tbh

Again thanks guys for all your responses. I'm going to find out how much it is to replace the crank. In Ireland everything is so expensive so will get the crank from miliners if I get it here it will be doubled the price just the Labour I have to fork out for any thing else I should het done while this is being done

Oh and what parts are needed to replace the crank Bering in mind when I got the pulley I got new key way ,bolt, washer, belts, water pump and seal

You'll need big end and main bearings, thrust washers, front and rear crankshaft oil seals. May be worth doing oil pump while it's all out and possibly clutch too...

You'll need to check the pulley as even though its been replaced its likely to be damaged around the woodruff key slot, likewise be changing the bolt and washer and woodruff keys.
Was the timing belt and balance belt changed when the pulley was done, if not they should be done, and obviously if the auxiliary belts are not new it would make sense to change them as well also the Clutch while the engine is out unless its been done recently.